It’s normally the season we all wait for. We meticulously plan our looks and take to the streets. Hoping to be inspired not only by the looks walking down the runway but the looks that walk by us on our way to the shows. But with the pandemic still paralysing all out fashion attempts, fashion week once again, went digital!
Since his 2019 Resort debut, Ricardo Tiscis Burberry has left me slightly confused. Who is the Burberry demographic? I was hoping he would breathe some life into the Burberry collections, but I’m still waiting for that show that really makes us go wow! This season he was inspired by the sense of freedom people found after moving out of the city. He was also inspired by British country looks. The first look that walks the runway did peak my interest. I was mentally giving side eye to the collection, watching, hoping no one was seeing that I was. The layering is interesting even in the mismatch of pieces. We’ll start with the classic Burberry trench reinterpreted in a wool. This makes complete sense for fall as the classic trench provides protection from the rain but lack of warmth is noted by its wearers. Underneath a jacket in Faux fur which is the first reference we get to his country inspirations. A simple shirt completes the styling on top. From the waist down we get a small injection of colour in the form of an ochre skirt layered over some simple black pants. Perhaps Tisci was also inspired by Scottish heritage and this is his rendition of the kilt? Either way, the skirt is welcomed and it’s great to see the some of the bigger houses play around with their menswear.
The skirt is restyled in look 2 with a much more utilitarian sense. A utility style shirt is tucked in to the skirt and around the waist sits a matching knit. Complete with his backpack and boots, it’s definitely a new take on the country look and I subtly applaud his efforts.
We move to look 4 where my side eye becomes full view, apparently all I’m wearing now is blinkers and all I see is this look. The pleated skirt has grown into a dress and is styled with a potential knee high leather boot. The stiff shoulders still give a sense of masculinity in what could otherwise be a feminine look. The leather boots give me that sense of toughness and edge I was hoping Tisci would bring to Burberry. In my opinion its the strongest look from the collection. It’s something about its simplicity that speaks to me.
The same dress is now restyled in look 6 with a black jacket which falls at the same length as the skirt portion. The black pants make this look feel much more commercial. But the addition of the knotted hat gives a sense of whimsy and could be Tiscis interpretation of the trapper hat which forms a similar silhouette when buckled at the top of the head.
A slew of looks walk the runway that I bare no love for until we reach look 14. This joins the slew, its not a look I’m loving. A long sleeve mesh top which we have seen from Tisci before is styled underneath colour blocked, faux fur graphic printed, fringe trimmed shirt with cutout biker shorts. Even reading that was confusing and that’s before seeing the look. It feels disjointed, is this Tiscis interpretation of our disconnect from the world right now? This is far from the simplicity we’ve seen in some of the previous looks.
Further looks share silhouettes to ones we’ve seen earlier in the show, but we move now to look 20. A Varsity Jacket? What about this jacket speaks to the British countryside? I’m equally as confused by the jacket as by the additional cuffs exploding from the pockets. Deconstruction is something that’s played with by a few designers, we even saw it in Rick Owens Fall 21 show. But why has Tisci taken this direction?
Sticking with the sports influence he’s provided, the next look is the most casual from the collection and takes me back, not personally, but to the era where men wore leggings with jersey shorts and crew neck sweaters. Is this the beginning of a revival as we also saw Rick Owens with a variation of this look.
We all know Burberry for the trench coat, but as a designer, how do you keep a house signature looking fresh, how do you continuously reinvent a classic. This is a piece im intrigued by, a collarless trench coat. This feels fresh and modern and could inspire previous Burberry clients, and those looking for a new staple to invest. It’s a risky move by Tisci to play with such as iconic piece. Styled simply here with a v-neck sweater which mirrors the new neckline but I am wondering what happens to the look when the jacket is left undone. Overall some strong looks surrounded by typical Tisci confusion. Let’s hope the next show pulls on these strong looks and delivers us a more cohesive show.